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Winston the pig fell into Zita's life when he dropped onto my uncle's
head and killed him dead. The news reached me in Rostock, drab, damp and
winter grey, where my trip had begun. I had planned to travel from the
Baltic to the Black Sea, across the continent's waist, along the line of
the old Iron Curtain, but a telephone call changed everything.
"It's your uncle," she
shouted. The line was bad. I couldn't hear. "He's finally kicked
buckets."
I caught the train to Berlin and
changed for Potsdam. The lost corner of the west had regained its
central position and Europe had reclaimed its east. The Wall, which had
been open for only a few weeks, was breached in places, like a sandbank
by the current, and rivers of people streamed across the false divide.
They gathered in pools on no man's land, lapped against the barrier and
wore it away with hammers then pocketed the detritus as mementos. The
late great division of the world, between a capitalist west and a
communist east, passed away as an historical aberration.
The familiar house of white stucco
and yellow shutters was hidden from the street by a thicket of hedges.
Zita opened the door and Winston ran out. The murderer was grinning.
"Bloody hell, stop the
beast," she ordered over her gums. "He's got my
dentures."
'a surreal masterpiece' Colin Thubron
'Crazy, charming, a delight' John le Carré
'The most extraordinary debut in travel writing since "In
Patagonia". A dark, sardonic and brilliant book which grows in
stature with every page.' William Dalrymple
'A thing of beauty' Jan
Morris
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